Spring Tips

Consult owner’s manual for specific advice on mower maintenance.
Clean off mower and check under carriage for debris.
Change the oil. Replace air filter and spark plugs. Lubricate controls and linkages.
Maintain sharp blades. Torn grass turns brown, is unsightly, and invites disease.

Most lawns in this area are cool season grasses. The peak growth period is when temperatures are 60°-75°.
Mow high and often. The higher you mow, the deeper the roots with fewer weeds and pests.
Never take off more than 1/3 of the blade at one time.

Water deeply and infrequently – once or twice per week. The ideal amount is 1″-2″ per week.
Early morning is the best time to water. Grass that sits wet overnight can invite disease.

Fall is the best time to seed. Spring is the 2nd best time.
Buy only high quality seed. Always read label – note the date tested to ensure freshness.
Germination percentage should be at least 85%. Inert matter should not exceed 3%.
Ideally a bag of seed will contain no weed, other crop or noxious weed seed.
Apply a starter fertilizer over the seed. Keep evenly moist by watering until 3″ tall.
New grass can be mowed when 3″-4″ tall.

A spring fertilizer feeding promotes strong color, stimulates root development, and increases disease resistance.
Feed only when lawn is actively growing.
Follow directions on the label. Keep children and pets away during that time.
For cool season grasses, the biggest feedings should be late summer and fall.
In the spring, use lesser amounts of a slow release fertilizer.
Avoid fertilizing cool season grasses in hot weather. Feeding then does the weeds more good than the grass.

The best defense in weed control is to grow thick, healthy grass.
If you don’t have too many weeds, pull them out by hand. Be sure to get the entire plant and root.
For heavier weed infestation a chemical application may be required. Follow directions carefully.
Herbicides are chemicals that kill plants. There are two types:
- Pre-emergent – This type kills seeds before they germinate. Effective against annual weeds.
- Post-emergent – This type kills existing weeds.
New seed and herbicides don’t mix. If you use a herbicide, wait 30 days before you lay down seed.
A second weed control application may be needed in the late spring to control late germinating weeds.

Mulch reduces moisture loss from roots, minimizes weeds, and gives the landscape a well groomed appearance.
As beneficial as mulch is, too much can be harmful. Average amount needed – 2″-4″ in depth.
Most landscapes are over mulched.
Thick heavy mulch becomes matted and prevents penetration of water and air.
Avoid mulch “volcanoes” where mulch is piled up around the base of the tree. This method keeps moisture in direct contact with the bark, eventually causing the tree to decline.
Proper mulching looks more like a “doughnut”. Starting 3-5 inches away from the trunk, create a ring with a depth of 1″ on the inside of the circle to 4″ on the outside.
The wider the ring, the greater benefit to the roots. Mulch out to the drip line if possible.

If you have any questions or need help getting your yard in shape, Grass Roots is here to help.